Camino de Santiago - Sahagun
Part 4 - Burgos to Sahagun
The second stage of the Camino de Santiago takes you across the Meseta, also known as the Plateau or High Plains. During this section, the landscape stretches for miles on end.
It is no wonder that in Cervantes' novel Don Quijote de la Mancha, Don Quijote is said to lose his mind while crossing the Meseta. These endless plains test your sanity. At one point, Dave said it felt like we were walking across Kansas or Iowa.
It is here where the focus shifts from physical effort to inner strength and grit. By now, we’d had plenty of time to get used to our daily walking of 13 miles or more, so mental toughness became more important. It was a rainy morning as we left Burgos for a planned 14-mile hike through rainy rolling hills, and I twisted my ankle. The tears were not from pain, but from the fear that my Camino might be over or that we’d have to stop. My ankle swelled and hurt to touch, and I felt discouraged. After a short rest, I chose to keep going. I had overcome my first mental hurdle.
Despite the rough start, we kept going. We passed through Rabe de las Calzadas on our way to Hornillos del Camino, where we planned to stay the night.
We stopped at a small roadside chapel, where a nun stamped our Pilgrim passport and gave us a Virgin Mary medal. Many small towns along the Camino rely on tourism, and their signs can be confusing. Hotels, hostels, and shops sometimes put up signs that look like Camino markers to attract travelers, but most locals are happy to help and point you in the right direction. People in upstairs apartments would call out and show us the way. You quickly get used to hearing “Buen Camino” all day.
That afternoon, after checking in at our albergue, we were ready to relax. We spotted a lively outdoor bar nearby. On the way, we met a group of energetic, freshly showered Americans who joined us. We all went to the bar together and spent the afternoon enjoying drinks and laughing. They were also walking the Camino, but as part of a cushy tour group with a bus. They looked and smelled much better than we did.
We got completely soaked on this section and rushed to town as thunder & lightening got closer and closer
The next day, we started our second 18-mile walk to Poblacion de Campos, now deep in the meseta. In summer, the landscape is brown, but in May it’s green and full of wildflowers. Our hotel felt like a blessing. It was cool, comfortable, and we were welcomed with Sangrias.
Castro Jeriz
Each night, we pored over maps, weighing distances, weather, bathroom stops, and where we might find a bed. These decisions were never simple, especially with the next few days looming ahead. We set our sights on Calzadilla de la Cueza, thinking a 20-mile walk across flat land would be manageable. Instead, it stretched to 22 miles, becoming our toughest challenge yet. This section was long, painful, and messed with our heads.
My mind unraveled; instead of embracing the moment, I invented new ways to curse with every step. The late May sun was relentless, and shade was hard to come by. We walked alone, as most others had started early and finished long before us. One thing I forgot to mention earlier: the Camino always leads to a church/cathedral in every village and town along the way.
Seeing these distant church steeples promised hope, guiding us into each town. But on this day, the horizon was empty. At the crest of each rolling hill, we hoped to see a church steeple, and each time we were disappointed. Even when signs claimed we were just five miles away, there was nothing ahead to lift our spirits.
Tears slipped out, betraying my frustration and embarrassment. I knew Dad and Dave were struggling too, but they managed to stay upbeat. Finally, we stumbled into town, grateful for time to rest and wash our dusty clothes in the sink for tomorrow’s journey.
The 15 miles to Sahagun the next day felt easy compared to the last two days. This was the halfway point, and we had entered the autonomous community of Leon.
